Carbon Knife Steel 1084, 3.2 x 38 x 1000 mm (3 Bars)
- 5.00 (cm)
- 4.00 (cm)
- 104.00 (cm)
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- Calculated at Checkout
Knife Making Steel bar; 1084 Carbon Steel in 3.2 x 38 x 1000 mm (3 bars)
BULK BUY PRODUCT: See costs for 1,2 and 3 bars (this is for 3 bars)
*Note this will not be sent with Express even if you pay $5 for Express at check-out, but by cheapest freight possible to your location due to weight*
The most popular carbon steel for new makers is probably 1084 Carbon Steel, due to ease of heat treatment.
The blade can be heat treated any way you can get it hot enough, no soak time or complicated temperature changes required.
For instance with a forge, a blowtorch or a kiln heating the blade until dull orange and checked against a magnet.
When the steel no longer is attracted to the magnet, it has hit critical temperature and can be QUICKLY quenched in canola oil.
Size of steel bar is about 3.2 mm thick, 38 mm wide and 1000 mm long. (x 3)
The steel comes already annealed and ready to work.
Annealed means the steel is "soft" and workable with hand tools.
It can be drilled, filed, ground and shaped with relative ease.
Look up making a hand filing jig on youtube for an easy way to get even bevels.
This steel will need to be heat treated, either at home or by sending it away for heat treatment.
Heat treating 1084 Carbon Steel:
- Heat steel to non-magnetic (about 815-820 C)
- No hold time, quench as soon as hot enough
- Quench in 30-40 C canola oil for a fast, effective quench
- Temper twice, for 2 hours each time at 200 C (in a kitchen stove, for instance)
Optional: it is recommended to stress relieve the steel by heating it to red hot and letting it air cool a couple of times before quenching. This helps reduce stress in the steel before the (stressful) quench. If wanting to normalise to refine grain size, heat to 870 C and let air cool 2-3 times. Normalising is done if the steel has been forged, if doing stock removal this step is not usually done.
*Disclaimer, there is much more to heat treatment than covered here. This is a summary only with enough information to successfully make your own knife blades. As you progress and read more, your process may change to increase the toughness or other qualities of the completed product.
showing blades after normalizing cycles, where the blades are heated and left to air cool. This is often done before quenching, helping to releave tension from the blade before quenching. It also helps reduce the grain size if the blade has been overheated and is generally a good idea.
Came quickly and exactly as described. Couldn't ask for a better service